Palio di Siena: Italy’s most thrilling horse race

Imagine a medieval square packed with thousands of people. Drums echo through the streets, banners wave from balconies, and ten bareback riders charge around the square into a heart-pounding race that’s over in less than two minutes.

That’s pretty much the Palio di Siena in a couple of words, and if you’re heading to Tuscany in the summer, you won’t want to miss it.

It’s a horse race, but a centuries-old one, and definitely the most celebrated historical event of entire Tuscany. It dates back to the 17th century and takes place twice a year, on July 2 and August 16, right in the center of Siena, in the city's famous shell-shaped Piazza del Campo.

The real stars of the show are Siena’s “contrade”: 17 historic neighborhoods, each with its own colors, animal symbol, and fiercely loyal residents. Rival “contrade” don’t just race to win: they’ll do whatever they can to make sure their enemies lose, and that’s all part of the game. 

The race is fast, intense and a little chaotic. Jockeys ride bareback, and they’re allowed to push, shove, and block one another. Riders often fall during the sharp turns, but the fun thing is that even the horse that crosses the finish line without a rider can still win, and it has happened. 

Even though Siena has seventeen “contrade”, only ten of them race in each Palio. The seven that didn’t race the previous year are automatically in, and the other three are chosen by draw, in a lively public ceremony with trumpeters and flags.

The horses are selected from stables across Italy and go through trials and vet checks. Then, three days before the race, a lottery decides which horse goes to which contrada. From that moment on, the horse becomes a kind of sacred figure for the neighborhood. Everyone keeps a close eye on their horse and rider, who are watched over, guarded, and celebrated.

The Palio begins with a cannon blast. Suddenly, the piazza falls silent. Horses race three laps around the square, on a dirt track lined with padded corners. Falls are guaranteed and part of the show.

During the race, anything goes: jockeys can use whips on their own horse or others. It’s chaotic, loud, and over in about 90 seconds. And remember: the horse wins, not the jockey. The first to cross the finish line brings glory, even if its rider was thrown off halfway through.

The winning contrada takes home the palio, a hand-painted silk banner, and the celebration can last for weeks.

If you’re planning a trip to Tuscany in July or August, check the dates and try to be in Siena for the Palio. It’s one of the unmissable things to do in Siena. You can watch the race for free from the center of the square (you’ll need to get there early and stand), or you can book a spot on a balcony or in one of the bleachers around the square.

And Ii you want the full experience, come a few days before the race. You’ll see the horse trials, take part in the festivities, and watch the grand Corteo Storico, a historical parade in full medieval costume that happens right before the race.

The Palio di Siena is emotional, unpredictable, and unlike anything else in Italy. It’s not a show for tourists, it’s a living local tradition. If you’re looking for an authentic Italian experience, this is it.

Thinking about seeing the Palio di Siena but not sure where to start?
We’d love to help. E-mail us at info@citylightstours.com, and we’ll walk you through how to plan your visit so you don’t miss a thing.